The Living Cloak of St. Dominic: Cocullo’s Snake Festival
- Ancient Synthesis: The festival is a rare survival of pre-Christian Marsi rituals (dedicated to the goddess Angitia) successfully merged with Catholic devotion to St. Dominic.
- The Serpari Tradition: Local “snake catchers” maintain a centuries-old tradition of capturing, feeding, and respectfully releasing wild, non-venomous snakes specifically for the procession.
- Bizarre Rituals: Beyond the snakes, the festival features unique traditions like pulling a bell rope with one’s teeth to cure toothaches and venerating a sacred horseshoe.
The Festival of the Snake-Catchers (Festa dei Serpari) is a unique annual event held in Cocullo, a small medieval village in the Abruzzo region of Italy. Held in honor of St. Dominic the Abbot (San Domenico Abate)—the patron saint protecting against snakebites, rabies, and toothaches—the festival culminates in a dramatic procession where a statue of the saint is draped with living snakes and carried through the streets.
Origins and History Since 2012, the festival has been held on May 1st (historically, it took place on the first Thursday of May). While explicitly a Catholic celebration, its roots are deeply ancient, tracing back to the pagan rituals of the Marsi, an Oscan-Umbrian people of central Italy known as skilled snake charmers and healers. The current festival is widely believed to be a continuation of an ancient celebration honoring the goddess Angitia.
Angitia was a deity associated with healing and snakes. The Romans derived her name from anguis (Latin for “serpent”), solidifying her connection to the reptiles. When Christianity spread to the area, the protective attributes of Angitia were transferred to the Benedictine monk St. Dominic (951–1031 AD), who lived in the area and reportedly cleared the fields of venomous vipers.
The Rituals and Relics
St. Dominic is the patron saint of both Cocullo and the nearby town of Villalago. Devotees visit the church to interact with two specific relics:
- A Molar: Kept in a reliquary in Cocullo (another is in Villalago), this tooth is associated with healing dental pain. Traditionally, pilgrims ring the church bell by pulling the rope with their teeth to ensure good dental health for the coming year.
- A Horseshoe: Believed to belong to the Saint’s mule, symbolizing protection during travel.
The Snake Catchers (Serpari)
The preparation begins long before the festival. Every year, as the snow melts at the end of March, the Serpari (snake catchers) venture into the surrounding mountains. Using techniques passed down through generations, they search for non-venomous species, primarily the four-lined snake (Cervone), the Aesculapian snake (Saettone), the grass snake, and the green whip snake.
Once captured, the snakes are treated with great reverence. They are kept in wooden boxes (historically terracotta jars) for 15 to 20 days leading up to the festival. During this time, the catchers feed them a diet of live mice and hard-boiled eggs to ensure they are calm and healthy.
The Procession
On the day of the festival, the snakes are placed onto the statue of St. Dominic. It is considered a good omen if the snakes coil around the statue’s head and remain calm; if they fall or appear agitated, locals fear it predicts bad luck. After the procession, in a crucial act of ecological respect, the Serpari return the snakes to the exact locations in the wild where they were found.
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St. Dominic and the Ancient Roots of the Ritual
St. Dominic the Abbot (San Domenico Abate) was a Benedictine monk born in Foligno, Umbria, who traveled extensively through the regions of Lazio and Abruzzo founding various monasteries and hermitages. According to local tradition, he resided in Cocullo for seven years. Upon his departure, he left behind two relics that became central to the village’s identity: one of his own molar teeth and a horseshoe from his mule.
While the festival is famously linked to the cult of the Marsian goddess Angitia, some scholars propose an alternative origin rooted in the mythology of Heracles (Hercules). This theory is supported by archeological evidence, specifically votive bronzes discovered in the nearby hamlet of Casale. These artifacts depict Heracles, who famously strangled two serpents sent by Hera to kill him in his cradle. As Heracles was often venerated in the ancient Mediterranean as a protector against wild beasts and dangers, he represents a logical precursor to a saint who protects against snakebites.
The transition from paganism to Christianity is illustrated by the legend of the tooth. Hagiographies of St. Dominic’s disciples recount that the Saint extracted his own tooth and gifted it to the people of Cocullo. Anthropologically, the veneration of the Saint’s tooth is likely an allusion to the poisonous fang of the snake, reflecting an ancient principle of sympathetic magic where “like cures like.” This gift gave rise to a specific faith that effectively supplanted the pagan cult of Angitia or Heracles, repurposing the existing snake rituals for a Christian context.
The handling of the snakes involves strict organization to ensure the animals are returned to the wild. To identify every snake and return it to its exact capture site, the Serpari place a mark on the reptile. This is typically done using a colored stroke of varnish on the head or a specific number or symbol painted on the animal’s belly. Historically, the connection between the animals and the sacred space was even closer. Until about forty years ago, snakes were brought directly inside the church during Mass, right up to the altar. However, a decree by the bishop and church authorities prohibited this tradition, and today the snakes await the Saint outside, joining the ritual only during the outdoor procession.
Common Questions About the Festival of the Snake-Catchers
When is the Cocullo Snake Festival held?
The festival takes place annually on May 1st in the village of Cocullo, Abruzzo. Historically held on the first Thursday of May, the date was fixed to May 1st in 2012 to accommodate more visitors.
Are the snakes used in the procession dangerous?
No, the snakes used are non-venomous species native to the Abruzzo mountains, such as the Four-lined snake and the Aesculapian snake. They are handled with great care by expert Serpari and are returned to the wild after the event.
Who is St. Dominic the Abbot?
t. Dominic (951–1031 AD) is a Benedictine monk and the patron saint of Cocullo, invoked for protection against snakebites, rabies, and toothaches. His cult replaced ancient pagan rituals dedicated to the snake goddess Angitia.
Why do people pull the church bell with their teeth in Cocullo?
This ritual is performed to ensure dental health for the upcoming year. It is linked to the saint’s relic—a molar tooth—kept in the local church, symbolizing his power to heal physical ailments.
Matteo Damiani is an Italian sinologist, photographer, author and motion designer. Matteo lived and worked for ten years in China. Founder of CinaOggi.it, China-underground.com, Weirditaly.com and RetroFuturista.com.
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